Sounds like the same problem my son has with his Grand Prix.

If I'm not mistaken, it's sitting on the sensor housing that will protrude into the air intake. An electrical clip and 4 screws is all there is to the install.

Doesn't look too tough.

 

 

 

 

 

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

 

Detach the electrical connector from the MAF sensor.

 

For the 3.1L engine, remove the MAF sensor from the air cleaner housing.

 

For the 3.4L engine, remove the air cleaner and duct assembly. Loosen the sensor retaining clamp and remove the sensor.

 

For the 3.8L engine, remove the fresh air duct from the throttle body and air cleaner assembly. Remove the retaining screws, then remove the MAF sensor from the throttle body.

 

To install:

 

For the 3.8L engine, position the MAF sensor to the throttle body and secure with the 3 retaining screws.

 

For the 3.4L engine, position the sensor and fasten the retaining clamp. Install the air cleaner and duct assembly.

 

For the 3.1L engine, carefully install the MAF sensor to the air inlet grommet. Install the MAF sensor to the air inlet duct.

 

Attach the electrical connector, then connect the negative battery cable.

Doesn't look too tough.

 

 

 

 

 

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

 

Detach the electrical connector from the MAF sensor.

 

For the 3.1L engine, remove the MAF sensor from the air cleaner housing.

 

For the 3.4L engine, remove the air cleaner and duct assembly. Loosen the sensor retaining clamp and remove the sensor.

 

For the 3.8L engine, remove the fresh air duct from the throttle body and air cleaner assembly. Remove the retaining screws, then remove the MAF sensor from the throttle body.

 

To install:

 

For the 3.8L engine, position the MAF sensor to the throttle body and secure with the 3 retaining screws.

 

For the 3.4L engine, position the sensor and fasten the retaining clamp. Install the air cleaner and duct assembly.

 

For the 3.1L engine, carefully install the MAF sensor to the air inlet grommet. Install the MAF sensor to the air inlet duct.

 

Attach the electrical connector, then connect the negative battery cable.

 

 

To be cautious, once you remove the air line, stuff a clean, preferrably lent free, rag in the throttle body. You don't want anything to get in there, or you'll have much bigger problems than a MAF sensor.

To be cautious, once you remove the air line, stuff a clean, preferrably lent free, rag in the throttle body. You don't want anything to get in there, or you'll have much bigger problems than a MAF sensor.

Lent doesn't start for about four more weeks. :lol:

 

Seriously, very good advice, nees! :thumb:

If you have an auto parts store close by, drive it up there, and have them check the engine codes. If a senor is bad, it should be throwing a code. They'll be able to tell you what's wrong. That is if you don't trust your mechanic. Based on my quick search, a 34 is the MAF. If it truly is the MAF, you can try the cleaner or buy a new one and install yourself. Again, I'll never buy anything electrical from Autozone, as that's just been my dad's and my personal experiences.

 

Thanks everyone. I'm going to try this one and see what happens. I'm keeping the fingers crossed for something simple and inexpensive.

 

It's not that I don't trust the mechanic, just kind of like a doctor's opinion you're not real confident with, I want a second opinion.

Thanks everyone. I'm going to try this one and see what happens. I'm keeping the fingers crossed for something simple and inexpensive.

 

It's not that I don't trust the mechanic, just kind of like a doctor's opinion you're not real confident with, I want a second opinion.

 

If he disconnected the MAF, plug it back in when you get to the auto parts store, as I would think it'd obviously throw a code if it's not connected. Plus, you can get the codes from the guy and come home and check them for yourself on the net. As for "questioning" the mechanic, I used to be the same way. I've got a guy that I trust now, so I take my car to him for any extensive work, like a timing belt/waterpump.

Thanks everyone. I'm going to try this one and see what happens. I'm keeping the fingers crossed for something simple and inexpensive.

 

It's not that I don't trust the mechanic, just kind of like a doctor's opinion you're not real confident with, I want a second opinion.

 

Another thing I just thought of. Disconnect your negative terminal at the battery, reattached the MAF sensor, and then reconnect the negative terminal. By doing this, you clear the code bank, and when you fire up the car, all appropriate codes will get thrown. There's a chance that the MAF sensor is fine, but a code was thrown because your mechanic detached it. Without resetting the code bank, you won't know if the MAF was bad to begin with, or the code was just thrown because the mechanic disconnected it.